LightBoost HOWTO

Instructions for Zero Motion Blur on LightBoost LCD

Supported LightBoost Monitors: See Official List of Gaming Monitors. This is for LightBoost only. If you have another similar feature called ULMB (Ultra Low Motion Blur) or BENQ Blur Reduction, see Motion Blur Reduction FAQ.

LightBoost monitors have a strobe backlight feature that completely eliminate motion blur for 2D; for CRT-quality perfectly sharp fast motion on LCD.

Without LightBoost
Fast Motion Without LightBoost
With LightBoost
Fast Motion With LightBoost
These are real photographs. Not simulated.  See Comparision: 60fps vs 120fps vs LightBoost

There are rave reviews of LightBoost (“It’s like a CRT”) and media coverage including TFTCentral, ARS Technica,, NewEgg, and many others!
For scientific information on how LightBoost eliminates motion blur, see the LightBoost FAQ and high speed video of LightBoost, simulating a 120Hz CRT via a strobe backlight.

Editor’s Note: As of 2017, there are new LightBoost clones.

There are new brand names such as NVIDIA “Ultra Low Motion Blur” (ULMB), EIZO “Turbo240”, ASUS “Extreme Low Motion Blur” (ELMB), BenQ “Blur Reduction”, BenQ/Zowie “Dynamic Acceleration” (DyAc), all with better picture quality. If you have not purchased a monitor yet, you may wish to consider a newer blur reduction technology in the Official List of Gaming Monitors.

Select preferred LightBoost instructions:

  • Easy LightBoost via ToastyX Strobelight App

    This is the world’s easiest way to use LightBoost to eliminate motion blur.
    Easily turn ON/OFF LightBoost via a keypress! No hacks. No registry tweaks.
    Does not require 3D Vision drivers.

    1. First, Download ToastyX Strobelight.
      IMPORTANT: You must have a supported 120Hz ASUS or 120Hz BENQ monitor!
      IMPORTANT: LightBoost will not work with NVIDIA Optimus (laptops).
    2. Next, run strobelight-setup to install strobed video modes. Then reboot.
      strobelight-setup    strobelight
      IMPORTANT: To easily turn ON/OFF LightBoost, you must install at least one strobed refresh rate AND at least one non-strobed refresh rate.
    3. Finally, after reboot, run strobelight to initialize LightBoost for the first time.
      NOTE: You can add strobelight.exe to the Startup Folder, so it starts up everytime you starts Windows. 
    4. Test LightBoost using a motion test. View Moving Photo Test at
      Turn ON/OFF LightBoost while viewing this motion test to see the big difference.
      Test in Chrome or other 120Hz-friendly web browser (FireFox 24+, Opera 15+).

    Useful LightBoost Tips

    • Turning ON/OFF LightBoost via hotkeys
      Control+Alt+Plus — turns ON LightBoost
      Control+Alt+Minus — turns OFF LightBoost
    • Other Ways to Verify that LightBoost is enabled:
      (a) Check monitor OSD menus. The “LightBoost” adjustment should be unlocked.
      (b) Wave a finger in front of a white screen. You should see a stroboscopic effect.
      (c) Use a motion test such as
      Turn ON/OFF LightBoost while repeating test, to see the big difference.
    • For better LightBoost colors, adjust your nVidia Control Panel:
      nVidia Control Panel Desktop Brightness = 52%
      nVidia Control Panel Desktop Contrast = 45%
      nVidia Control Panel Desktop Gamma = 0.70
      This compensates for the LightBoost gamma bump (washed out colors).
      NOTE: If you get a purple tint, lower the Contrast setting via monitor’s menu until tint disappears. You can also adjust while viewing the Lagom Contrast Test Pattern.
    • For optimal benefit, run your games at triple-digit frame rates.
      Microstutters become easier to detect if they’re no longer masked by motion blur. To eliminate stutters, run LightBoost at frame rates matching the refresh rate.
      (a) Run at 100fps @ 100Hz, or run at 120fps @ 120Hz.
             …Adjust game details or upgrade your GPU.  Also try FXAA instead of FSAA.
      (b) Experiment with VSYNC ON (may lag) or use “Adaptive VSYNC” (less input lag)
             …These settings makes LightBoost framerate=Hz motion look much smoother, to allow game turning/strafing panning motion as smooth as TestUFO or PixPerAn.
      (c) Use a good 1000Hz gaming mouse.
            …Mouse microstutters can hurt motion clarity. LightBoost benefits from a mouse that can turn left/right as smoothly as keyboard strafing left/right. 
    • For other information, see the LightBoost FAQ.
      If you are unable to turn off LightBoost, simply re-run strobelight-setup.exe and install non-strobed refresh rates. Alternatively, simply unplug your monitor’s power cable for a few seconds to deactivate LightBoost.
    • Alternate LightBoost HOWTO #2: If Using 3D Emitter Or Glasses Kit

      Choose these alternate instructions if you have obtained the NVIDIA 3D Vision Kit, or it’s built into your monitor (e.g. ASUS VG278H).  Works on all versions of Windows that 3D Vision is supported. These instructions allow you to keep LightBoost for both 2D and 3D.

      If you prefer an easier method of enabling LightBoost with less input lag and less inconveniences, choose the Easy Strobelight method instead of these instructions below.

      The procedure is simply set up stereoscopic 3D normally, launch the game in stereoscopic 3D, and then use Control+T to turn off stereoscopic operation.  At this point, you have LightBoost in 2D and you can play normally with no glasses, and with no motion blur!  No need to wear the 3D glasses if you don’t want to wear them.  The steps are as follows:

      1. Make sure your monitor supports LightBoost (see 120Hz Monitors List)
      2. Get your favorite latest graphics drivers from nVidia (
      3. Make sure your glasses emitter is connected.
      4. Go to Control Panel -> Display -> Adjust Resolution.
      5. Verify “Enable Stereoscopic 3D settings for all displays” is enabled. (May be missing on Windows 7, skip this step).
      6. Go to NVIDIA Control Panel (system tray -> nVidia icon), and select “Setup Stereoscopic 3D”.
      7. Click “Test Stereoscopic 3D” and follow the vendor instructions to test it at 120Hz.
      8. Start a video game. The game should be running in stereoscopic 3D.  This makes sure LightBoost is running, since it is automatically enabled during stereoscopic 3D.
      9. Hit Control-T inside the video game to turn off stereoscopic operation. This is an official keypress combination provided by official nVidia graphics drivers.
      10. Now you can play the game with no motion blur, for 120fps @ 120Hz gaming!
        The LightBoost strobe backlight is still enabled, and you don’t need the 3D glasses.
      11. Test motion fluidity with in Google Chrome or another 120Hz web browser.
      12. To keep LightBoost enabled at all times even at Windows Desktop, install this registry tweak. Download this registry file, and doubleclick on this file.
      13. For other information, See the LightBoost FAQ. (e.g. how to easily enable/disable)


      • Unlike the ToastyX methods, you have to hit Control+T every time you launch a game, and 3D is not persistently enabled at the desktop (unless the optional registry tweak is installed).
      • Some users have reported a lower framerate and more input lag with the Control+T method than the Unofficial Hack methods or the Easy ToastyX Strobelight method.
      • Some games may need extra adjustment to work well with this (e.g. raising max_fps in Source engine games, or adjusting the VSYNC setting).
      • You need frame rates matching (or exceeding) Hz for best benefit.  Since LightBoost only works at 100Hz to 120Hz, you need [email protected], or [email protected]

      TIP: Turning Off LightBoost:
      To turn off LightBoost, either:
      1. Switch to a non-LightBoost refresh rate; OR
      2. Simply unplug monitor for a few seconds.
      Make sure “Enable Stereoscopic 3D” checkbox in nVidia Control Panel is turned off. 

      TIP: Improving Convenience, Stability & Eliminating “Control+T”:
      Try the easy ToastyX Strobelight App instead, if you are more interested in motion blur elimination rather than 3D Vision.

      • Alternate LightBoost HOWTO #3: ToastyX Custom Resolution Utility

        Choose these instructions only if you need more control than the Easy Strobelight Method. If you prefer the easy LightBoost method, choose a different set of LightBoost instructions.

        1. Get ToastyX Custom Resolution Utility (CRU).
          Download this and run CRU.
        2. Upon running ToastyX CRU, it will display a drop-down list.
          It should have an entry for each monitor. If there are more entries (e.g. old monitors no longer in use) and you’re not sure which ones are active, run reset-all.exe and reboot. That should leave you with one entry for each connected monitor.
        3. Use the “Edit…” button at the very top to set the product ID to ACI27F8 for each monitor. This will make the driver think you have a monitor with a built-in emitter.
          This makes it easy to enable LightBoost for 2D. (The model name doesn’t matter)
        4. Use the “Import…” button at the bottom to import this file: lightboost.bin
          This includes the LightBoost modes (100Hz / 110Hz / 120Hz).
          You can remove modes that you don’t need. If you have multiple monitors, use the copy & paste buttons at top to copy the resolutions to the other monitor entries. If you need 144Hz (non-LightBoost), add it using Timings “Reduced” instead of “Auto”
        5. Click OK to save the changes, then reboot.
        6. In NVIDIA Control Panel, open the “Set up stereoscopic 3D” page, then click the “Run Setup Wizard” button. If the button isn’t there, uncheck “Enable stereoscopic 3D” and click the “Apply” button.nvidia_control_panel_3dsetup
        7. In the setup wizard, click the “Next” button, then click “Next” again.
          At this point, it should enable LightBoost.  If don’t have an emitter, the mouse cursor may temporarily become very sluggish and jerky.  If you don’t need to enable 3D (which may add input lag for LightBoost 2D), then you can exit here. Otherwise, continue the wizard as usual.
        8. Quickly verify your LightBoost is enabled.
          (a) Check the motion test at
          (b) Check monitor’s OSD menus, the “LightBoost” adjustment is unlocked.
          (c) Wave finger in front of a white screen. You should see a stroboscopic effect.
        9. For better LightBoost colors, adjust your nVidia Control Panel:
          nVidia Control Panel Desktop Brightness = 52%
          nVidia Control Panel Desktop Contrast = 45%
          nVidia Control Panel Desktop Gamma = 0.70
          This compensates for the LightBoost gamma bump (washed out colors).
          NOTE: For purple tint, lower the Contrast setting via monitor’s menu until the purple disappears. You can also adjust while viewing the Lagom Contrast Test Pattern.
        10. Make sure you run your game at frame rates matching refresh rates.  Motion clarity is so greatly improved, that microstutters and tearing can become more visible.
          You need framerate matching Hz for maximum LightBoost benefit.
          (a) You must run at 100fps @ 100Hz, or run at 120fps @ 120Hz.
          (b) For best game performance, use VSYNC ON (may lag) or use Adaptive VSYNC (eliminate lag, best for competitive). These settings makes LightBoost framerate=Hz motion look much better, similar to TestUFO or PixPerAn.
          (c) Use a good 1000Hz gaming mouse that can turn left/right as smoothly as keyboard strafing left/right. Mouse microstutters can hurt motion clarity.
        11. Test motion fluidity with in Google Chrome or another 120Hz web browser.

        TIP: Turning Off LightBoost:
        To turn off LightBoost, either:
        1. Switch to a non-LightBoost refresh rate; OR
        2. Simply unplug monitor for a few seconds.
        Make sure “Enable Stereoscopic 3D” checkbox in nVidia Control Panel is turned off. 

        For Other Tips: See the LightBoost FAQ.

        • Alternate LightBoost HOWTO #4: Advanced EDID Override Method

          This is the hardest and most advanced method. It requires no software and no 3D glasses emitter. It only requires nVidia 3D Vision drivers to be installed. Most users should use the easy LightBoost method instead of the below.

          1. Make sure your monitor supports LightBoost.
          2. Make sure you install the latest 3D Vision drivers from
          3. IMPORTANT (monitor-specific): If you’re using a monitor without an emitter (e.g. BENQ monitors, ASUS VG278HE or ASUS VG248QE) you must trick it into thinking it’s an ASUS VG278H (non-HE) by installing the EDID override INF file. (This is so nVidia drivers are able to be tricked into enabling LightBoost in 2D mode, without needing to own a shutter glasses emitter). Download the INF file here:
            Supports Windows Vista, 7 and 8. Windows XP is NOT supported.
          4. Install this INF file via Device Manager, then reboot.
            Detailed instructions: First, right-click this INF file in File Explorer and select “Install”. Next, go to Device Manager and right-click your monitor, select “Update Driver Software”, then “Browser my computer…”, then “Let me pick…”, then disable “Show compatible hardware”, then select “LightBoost EDID Override” from manufacturer ASUS (even if you use BENQ) then reboot.
            IMPORTANT (Windows 8 specific): If you’re installing under Windows 8,
            follow these instructions to disable driver signature enforcement before installing this INF file. The INF file is installed via right-clicking the monitor in Control Panel -> Device Manager, and updating its driver.
          5. Install registry tweak to enable LightBoost in 2D mode without shutter glasses:
          6. Save this as a .reg file, double click on .reg file, add to registry, reboot.
          7. Go to Control Panel -> Display -> Adjust Resolution
          8. Check “Enable Stereoscopic 3D settings for all displays” is enabled (Windows 8 only)
          9. Go to NVIDIA Control Panel (system tray -> nVidia icon)
          10. Select “Set up Stereoscopic 3D” at left bar
          11. Select “Enable Stereoscopic 3D” checkbox
          12. Select “Asus 120Hz LCD” (even if you have a BENQ), and click Apply
            Immediately, you should see a change in display colors. Immediately, you should see a change in display colors.
          13. Quickly verify your LightBoost is enabled.
            (a) Check the motion test at
            (b) Check monitor’s OSD menus, the “LightBoost” adjustment is unlocked.
            (c) Wave finger in front of a white screen. You should see a stroboscopic effect.
          14. For better LightBoost colors, adjust your nVidia Control Panel:
            nVidia Control Panel Desktop Brightness = 52%
            nVidia Control Panel Desktop Contrast = 45%
            nVidia Control Panel Desktop Gamma = 0.70
            This compensates for the LightBoost gamma bump (washed out colors).
            NOTE: For purple tint, lower the Contrast setting via monitor’s menu until the purple disappears. You can also adjust while viewing the Lagom Contrast Test Pattern.
          15. Make sure you run your game at frame rates matching refresh rates.  Motion clarity is so greatly improved, that microstutters and tearing can become more visible.
            You need framerate matching Hz for maximum LightBoost benefit.
            (a) You must run at 100fps @ 100Hz, or run at 120fps @ 120Hz.
            (b) For best game performance, use VSYNC ON (may lag) or use Adaptive VSYNC (eliminate lag, best for competitive). These settings makes LightBoost framerate=Hz motion look much better, similar to TestUFO or PixPerAn.
            (c) Use a good 1000Hz gaming mouse that can turn left/right as smoothly as keyboard strafing left/right. Mouse microstutters can hurt motion clarity.
          16. Test motion fluidity with in Google Chrome or another 120Hz web browser.
          17. IMPORTANT: If certain games stubbornly launch in 3D mode (double image), press Control+T while inside the game, to make it switch back to 2D mode.

Other Tips

Adjust your LightBoost setting for very sharp-looking fast motion:
Adjust your “LightBoost” OSD setting via monitor menus or via ToastyX Strobelight. This adjusts strobe length. Use any value except “OFF”. Lower values are dimmer but have sharper-looking fast motion. Higher values are brighter but have less clear-looking fast motion. The sharpest fast motion occurs at 10% but is very dim. 100% is bright and is good enough for most people. A good compromise setting is 50% in a darkened room. See PHOTOS: LightBoost 10% vs 50% vs 100% for a comparision of the settings.

Smooth Scrolling In Web Browser
Smooth scroll in web browsers: If you’re using Chrome and web browsing, install Chromium Smooth Scroller to gain the benefits of sharp text scrolling with the mouse wheel. Make sure the steering wheel icon is enabled in your Chrome toolbar.

The Resulting Zero Motion Blur

What happens?

  1. All trailing artifacts disappears!  Ghosting, coronas, etc.
  2. All motion blur disappears!
  3. No motion blur when you play video games, even during fast motion.
  4. The zero motion blur effect will also occurs on the Windows desktop (e.g. window dragging, scrolling) if this LightBoost tweak is enabled in the Windows desktop.

How is it possible?

LightBoost is a programmable strobe backlight. The backlight is turned off while waiting for LCD to finish pixel transitions (unseen by human eyes), and the backlight is strobed only on fully-refreshed LCD frames (seen by human eyes). The strobes can be shorter than the panel’s pixel transitions, bypassing the pixel transition speed limit!
This is seen in high speed 1000fps video:

Motion blur is determined by the length of time a refresh is displayed on the screen. In addition to increased Hz, this can be further improved by flicker (black periods between refreshes, like a CRT). See this motion blur comparison:


Some notes

  1. IMPORTANT: Optimus (laptops) is NOT supported.
  2. Minor Side Effects: Different color, dimmer screen brightness, some flicker feel (if sensitive to CRT flicker). The LightBoost FAQ has picture adjustment tips.
  3. LightBoost is hardware-limited to refresh rates between 100Hz and 120Hz.
    For 144 Hz, LightBoost is turned off (automatically).  Fortunately, there’s far less motion blur with 120 Hz LightBoost than with 144 Hz non-LightBoost.
  4. You need framerate matching Hz for best LightBoost benefit.
    (e.g. [email protected] or [email protected])
  5. The improved motion clarity can make tearing and stutters easier to see at higher framerates than normal. To compensate for this, upgrade your GPU for better fluidity, use a 1000Hz mouse for better fluidity, adjust game detail settings for better fluidity, and adjust VSYNC ON / OFF / Adaptive settings. In some situations, VSYNC ON (more lag) or Adaptive VSYNC (less lag) can make LightBoost motion smoother looking.
  6. For answers to common questions, see the LightBoost FAQ.

CRT style gaming on LCD

LightBoost provides gaming with a CRT-like clarity, with zero motion blur — allowing complete immersion without being distracted by motion blur. Improved competitive gaming scores are possible thanks to a faster reaction time.  See improved Battlefield 3 statistics graphs.

A high end GPU is required (e.g. Geforce GTX 680780 or Titan) to frequently hit [email protected] most of the time to really notice the big improvement in motion clarity, with perfectly clear images even during fast turning and strafing. Also, it is necessary to disable the GPU artifical motion blur effects in video games, as that can ruin the LightBoost motion blur elimination. Also, some source-engine games needs their fps_max raised at the developer console, to play smooth.

For LightBoost help, feel free to ask your questions in the Blur Busters LightBoost Forum!

Supported LightBoost Monitors: See Official List of Gaming Monitors. This is for LightBoost only. If you have another similar feature called ULMB (Ultra Low Motion Blur) or BENQ Blur Reduction, see Motion Blur Reduction FAQ.

488 comments on “LightBoost HOWTO

  1. Pingback: AMD Radeon R9 290X by TAA WAR - TribalWar Forums

  2. PanzerIV says:

    Just a few questions to make sure of something…

    1- Is it only for Nvidia users or also Ati?

    2- Why so few monitors supported. That LightBoost software doesn’t work on ALL 120hz monitors?! I would be really p*ssed off if the (Asus VG236H) that I’m about to buy used in 2 days for only 200$CAD wouldn’t be compatible for no reason even though the hardware would be able to do it, as the newer Asus 144hz is 280$ + 15% = 322$ in store!

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  4. RoosterMKV says:

    I have nvidia surround currently enabled and then followed the steps outlined, however when checking the OSD menu I see the lightboost is greyed out. Additionally I see no change in brightness… Can you provide any insight on what I might have done wrong?

    setup is 3 ASUS: VG248QE.

    • Chief Blur Buster says:

      Which graphics cards are you using?
      And which method are you using (Strobelight, etc)?

      There is currently a bug in the NVIDIA drivers preventing LightBoost in surround mode; CallSignVega on can tell you about this. I’ve informed NVIDIA of this; we are hoping to see the bug fixed.

      • RoosterMKV says:

        I’m currently using two GTX 780’s in SLI and using strobelight method. When I tried to use CRU to reconfigure, enabling SLI immediately caused a BSOD, as such I figured this was due to the newer patches since it was just recently that I had this working with the CRU method.

        • Chief Blur Buster says:

          Rolling back to older drivers works too. However, you do lose the ability to play Battlefield4 well.
          (As of right now, it’s ironically easier to use a Radeon than NVIDIA to do triple LightBoost with BF4 — at least until NVIDIA fixes their drivers).

          • RoosterMKV says:

            Even more ironic, I got rid of a crossfire 7970 setup to do lightboost with SLI 780’s.

            May just have to swap these for some 290X’s.

          • RoosterMKV says:

            Hey Chief, do you know if any of the latest nvidia driver releases have fixed the ability to run this with surround?

          • Chief Blur Buster says:

            Not yet.

            There’s a DIY solution, however. If you don’t mind mind reflashing the EDID of your monitor:

            This may, in fact, be easier for BENQ monitors since their EDID’s are not write-protected. So, theoretically you could just go directly to the software steps of the LightBoost Hardware Mod HOWTO, and reflash your EDID that way. That way, “DO AT YOUR OWN RISK” — it is not a very safe procedure and may cause your BENQ to stop working properly (even if you don’t open them up) if you use these utilities incorrectly.

  5. Pingback: BENQ XL2720Z: Another official motion blur-eliminating strobe backlight | Blur Busters

  6. alleballe says:

    I’m an owner of the BenQ XL2420T and i’m currently trying it out with the Lightboost,
    but i’m having an issue with it.

    My problem is that after i’ve installed it and it’s working perfectly it automatically
    Enables the “3D-Mode” as my monitor menu,
    and when it does that it disables all the menu options on my monitor so i can’t use any of the good features that is has :(.

    I made a discovery though!.
    I discovered that if i didn’t install the “strobeligt-setup” and just the “strobelight.exe”
    i could enable the Lightboost and keep my monitor menu with its features.
    I can even use this for windowed games.
    I tried starting up a windowed game with the Lightboost on and at the same time running the UFO motionblur test visible in the background of the game window,
    and there was no motionblur on the UFO’s
    (So there shouldn’t have been any on the game either right?)

    But the problem with this is that the Lightboost instantaniously dies when i start up a
    fullscreen game (which is what i really need it for)

    So i’m wondering if this could be fixed to work in fullscreen by any chance?


    • Chief Blur Buster says:

      One of the easiest ways to force LightBoost to run at all times, is to simply run strobelight-setup and install only strobes modes (e.g. Just 120Hz strobed). This prevents you from turning off LightBoost, but that also prevents games from turning it off too as well.

      • alleballe says:

        Yes but when i do that i activate the “3D-Mode” on my monitor and i can’t control its features.

        Is there anyway that i could just run the “Strobelight.exe”
        with it forced on?
        And if not, is there anything that you could possibly do about it?

        Tbh i’d rather use my monitor as it is at 144hz,
        because with lightboost on it gets so dark and the colors are really bad ingame, but it’s bearable on the desktop and web browser,
        and i did follow the “Useful Lightboost Tips” regarding colors, i tried out the settings and i did not have any purple tint from the contrast.

        If i could run my settings with Lightboost on ingame it would be heaven 🙂


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  8. Benna says:

    Hi everybody, i’ve been through almost every page on the site, and i’ve found it very usefull and interesting.
    I own a BENQ XL2411T connected to a 7970 ghz edition and i’ve loaded also an ICC profile found on TFTcentral (well, the ICC profile is related to XL2420T, but the panel is basically the same).

    I’ve downloaded ToastyX Strobelight, and i’ve some question:
    – is not clear to me if LightBoost is enabled also setting ANY strobed refreshrate in strobelight-setup. If i set 144hz refresh and perform an UFO test, the test is ok and i can see the ufo without blur effect, so i guess Lightboost is active, isn’t it?
    – what exactly does setting STROBED refreshrate inside strobelight-setup (except messing up with colours: everything is blue)? In other terms: why should i activate a STROBED refresh rate if the above point is matched (I.e., Lightboost is active)

    I Thank You and ask SORRY if these are silly questions….

  9. MaxPower says:

    I tried it out on my XL2420T.
    The browser tests look absolutely awesome with strobelight on.

    But after testing it a few days with different games, i came to the conclusion, that i prefer a little blur over a flickering back light.

    Also, it reduces the brightness too much for my taste.

    • Chief Blur Buster says:

      If you want a strobe backlight without as much loss of image quality or brightness, there are other strobe backlights superior to LightBoost becoming available (e.g. EIZO Turbo240). Also, bear in mind that strobe backlights can look better with VSYNC ON motion than with VSYNC OFF motion, since strobe backlights make motion so clear that stutters/tearing is easier to see. Also, strobe backlights generally look best at triple-digit framerates.

      To replicate the same ‘awesome’ improvement as seen doing motion tests, you need:
      (1) 120fps at 120Hz
      (2) Good gaming mouse (1000Hz)
      (3) Good game engine and GPU (minimal stutters)
      (4) And if input lag is not critical, test out VSYNC ON or Adaptive VSYNC.

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  12. BxBender says:


    Thanks for this tool!

    But there is a problem with the software beta 3 because i cannot deactivate strobing, there is only the option to chance brightness 10-100%.

    My hardware + software: AMD Radeon 7950 + Catalyst 13.11 beta 9v2, Win 8.1 x64, Strobelight beta 3, BenQ 2720T 120hz.

    What is the optimal setting in the AMD CCC Software for better colors?
    I am using the colorprofile for perfekt quality and with strobelight on the picture looks not so great and a white onlinepage has many colors like green-blue-red in it.

    Can a user help me please?
    I need the option to change strobelight on-off-on…and better settings for the on-profile.


    • Chief Blur Buster says:

      Re-run strobelight-setup.exe and re-install multiple refresh rates, then reboot.
      For more instructions, see:

      – If still problems, try uninstalling/resetting using strobelight-setup.exe before trying again.
      – If still problems, post a comment in the monitortests link above, and ToastyX will do his best to troubleshoot this issue with you.
      – If necessary, you can also do an uninstall via running strobelight-setup.exe (just in case this is needed).

      For picture adjustments, see the LightBoost FAQ. Exact settings haven’t been supplie for AMD users, but try bumping gamma darker from default (move it about 20%-30% darker), brightness downwards about 5-10% from default, contrast upwards about 2-5% from default. Adjust while viewing Lagom Contrast test pattern, making sure that the dark squares don’t disappear and the bright squares don’t become equalized. If any other AMD users would like to post ideal LightBoost calibration settings, I’ll add these numbers!

  13. badugib says:

    I’m having a problem enabling lightboost, on all three options, including the hardest one, and I know I’ve been doing them correctly. I have a BENQ XL2420T, outputting from a laptop using nvidia 745M graphics card, and using nvidia optimus combining integrated INtel HD 4500 graphics.

    First, I can’t do Toasty’s app because Nvidia Optimus is not supported.
    Second, and Third option Ican’t do because I do not have nvidia stereoscopic 3d option for some reason and I do not know why. My nvidia driver is up to date. ANyone have any enlightenment?

    • Chief Blur Buster says:

      Optimus is the problem. It prevents the necessary signals from reaching the monitor to unlock the LightBoost feature. To solve this problem, you may wish to attempt to initialize the monitor into LightBoost using a surrogate computer first (e.g. desktop machine), before plugging your laptop in. Once LightBoost is unlocked (one-time procedure until the computer monitor is unplugged), unplug the desktop and plug your laptop in, run the proper timings (Vertical Total 1149), and LightBoost will work, if it’s outputting the proper custom resolution. Just don’t unplug your monitor from power, if you do things this way. LightBoost will deactivate once it’s unplugged from the wall socket, and you’ll have to start over again with the desktop computer.

      Yes, I know, Optimus is a headache for LightBoost users.

      • lasercircus says:

        I wish I had read this before I just bought my brand new BenQ XL2420TE and brand new notebook computer with the latest nVidia graphics with the sole intention of running everything permanently at 120hz Lightboost. This very topic of Optimus should be on its own page on a SUPER VISIBLE section of the site, because nearly every single notebook computer that ships today with a dedicated nVidia GPU is running Optimus technology. I discovered Lightboost through this site and was sold immediately. I am a notebook guy (more conducive to my mobile lifestyle, haven’t own a desktop in over a decade,) but thankfully most the games I play are not very demanding (even a modest GPU can run League of Legends at high framerates.) A Lightboost setup for my desk at home sounded perfect. My laptop was due for an upgrade, so I set out to purchase a Lightboost-compatible monitor and a notebook with the latest-and-greatest nVidia graphics. Pretty much anyone looking at a similar shopping quest is walking into a trap, because there is nothing out there (except in well-hidden comments like these) to indicate that Lightboost just simply WON’T WORK with Optimus.

        The immediate question I have to ask is: Did you recommend this method because you saw it worked somewhere? You seem to mention “Optimus users” multiple times in the comment, as if you’ve had experience with this issue before. Can you please give me a more detailed explanation of which cases you’ve seen, and what has or has not worked for those cases?

        A little more on my specific case: machine is a Sager NP8235 running Intel HD 4600 and nVidia GTX 770M (in Optimus configuration, obviously.) The machine has mini-DP, DP, and HDMI outputs on the back. I’ve tried all three outputs, and they are all indeed wired to the iGPU (as is the case with nearly every machine running an Optimus configuration.) The monitor is currently connected to the notebook through DisplayPort. Interestingly, Windows gives me 100hz and 144hz as allowed refresh rates (at all resolutions, including 1080p), but no 120hz in sight. None of the Lightboost instruction methods work (obviously.)

        The fact that it will let me do 144hz but not 120hz really concerns me. Like, I think I am going to have to try and acquire (borrow) a desktop to try the method you mentioned above as a last-ditch effort before I box everything up back up and shoot myself in the head, but the fact that the notebook won’t even output non-strobed 120hz (but will do 144hz?!) over DisplayPort makes me think that even if I could “initialize” the display externally, the Optimus laptop will still end up fucking me in the end. Why would it let me do 144hz stock but not 120hz? To rephrase, in case my language was confusing, going into system settings in Windows lists only 100hz and 144hz as supported refresh rates at all resolutions. 120hz is nowhere in sight. The laptop is connected to the XL2420TE through a regular DisplayPort cable.

        Please put big red warnings about Optimus all over your front page, or more people will waste a lot of time and money like I did. The amount of bad-holiday-shopping-luck I had to go through to EVEN GET the monitor and notebook here was ridiculous. I go through all of that just to discover that the setup doesn’t even work. Heartbroken does not even begin to describe my current condition. 🙁

        • lasercircus says:

          I wish to clarify one thing: I said Windows “only” lists 100hz and 144hz as the supported refresh rates. This statement was incorrect. They are not the ONLY refresh rates listed; all the ones below that, including 60hz are also available. I incorrectly used the word “only” because I was trying to emphasize that 100hz and 144hz were there, but that 120hz strangely was not. Pretty much every refresh rate the monitor supports EXCEPT 120hz is available in my system settings out-of-the-box.

        • Chief Blur Buster says:

          Thanks for you note.

          1. First, there’s some sporadic confirmed successes for Optimus; Just all of them are just ridiculously hard and a lot of hassle such as initializing using a separate computer (an old computer with an old AMD/NVIDIA card work — even a non-Optimus laptop has worked). However, if you went through all the trouble you already did, then the remaining steps would be fairly easy. Although I prefer people to post comments asking for help, I will try to help you (email me at mark[at] in an attempt to come up with easier solutions for Optimus users, but they almost all involve separate machines.
          2. Second, I’m going to make an edit referring to nVidia laptop/optimus users, similar to what you recommend.
          3. Third, you may be able to re-add 120Hz via ToastyX Custom Resolution Utility. Try this, add 120Hz, and then reboot. (If you want to more easily prepare for future LightBoost, download and import this “lightboost.bin” file into ToastyX Custom Resolution Utility. This adds 120Hz but will not immediately activate LightBoost; read below).

          To explain how LightBoost works, LightBoost is a two-step activation.
          Step one activation is a one-time unlocking signal (normally sent by NVIDIA drivers, but also by ToastyX Strobelight). This is a one-time activation (until you unplug your monitor).
          Step two activation is the use of a slightly tweaked custom resolution with a Vertical Total of 1149. Both are simultaneously needed in order for LightBoost to work. The problem with Optimus is that step one fails; there’s no easy way to transmit a custom signal (DDC command) to the NVIDIA chip. So step one needs to be done with a separate computer (even an old, cheap netbook).

          Questions (For these, you can reply to mark[at] if preferred)
          — Try importing the “lightboost.bin” into ToastyX Custom Resolution Utility. When you reboot, does 120Hz now appear? If so, you’ve now solved Step two activation.
          — Do you have any laptops or computers that you can use or temporarily borrow, that contains an AMD or non-Optimia nVidia chip?

          If you have such, then Install ToastyX Strobelight on it, and activate LightBoost normally using the existing “Easy LightBoost” instructions. (Preferably if this is another laptop, then make sure it is a non-Optimus NVIDIA or AMD. Make sure there is NO Intel graphics as that will prevent the LightBoost activation signal from reaching the monitor). If ToastyX Strobelight works, then this solves the step one LightBoost activation. Once activated, don’t unplug your monitor, or you lose LightBoost until you do the step one activation.

          If you’re only borrowing the second computer and it will become an inconvenience to do it all over again, then plug the monitor into a UPS first before activating. You can put it to sleep or use pushbutton-off (consumes less than 1 watt) and it will remember LightBoost activation. (And if you have a blackout, then just turn off via monitor front button; it will then survive a power blackout for a long time on UPS power). Just don’t unplug. Once LightBoost is successfully active, just unplug the other computer and reconnect your original computer (all without unplugging your monitor). Then use your LightBoost-compatible 120Hz mode, and LightBoost is active.

          There are confirmed successes with Optimus; but all of them have reported it was extremely challenging for them.

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  15. jasonbourne1905 says:

    Hi, i have ASUS VG248qe and i enabled the lightboost but should i enable 3d stereoscopic, too? Cause when i want to, i just can’t enable it. I think it’s because of i don’t have 3d glasses.

    • Chief Blur Buster says:

      If you just want LightBoost, but not 3D stereoscopic, you will need to use one of the alternative methods such as ToastyX Strobelight. This allows you to enable LightBoost without needing 3D stereoscopic. With ToastyX Strobelight, you don’t need to worry about 3D stereoscopic stuff, when playing games with LightBoost.

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  19. Baracus says:

    Just created an account to say THANK YOU!

    I gave this a go on my Benq XL2420T and everthing from Tribes: Ascend to BF4 is crystal clear. Amazing! It’s going to be hard going back to 60hz on my IPS now.

  20. Wisky says:

    Chief i respect everything you have done for this community just WOW !

    But unfortunately I have some issues of my own :/
    I’m nearly 100% sure that it’s not hardware related as for the fact that I have:
    CPU : 4770K
    GPU : 780 Ti
    Screen : VG248QE
    OS: W8.1

    Now what I did first was the easy method I did the reboot together with some windows updates restarted my PC and for some reason I have no clue why. ONLY my Google Chrome had an insane red tint on it ! I tried re-installing and everything a IT student who works with PC’s from the day he was 10 could think of .. but for no avail 🙁

    After that I proceeded to try the hard (and dirty :p ) method after restoring my pc to a previous restore point to get rid of the damn Google chrome bug. But again I had problems. When I started up anny game my frame rate would drop to below 10 fps ?? Even after closing the game the immense lag would continue until I restarted my PC.
    Can you please help me ! As I am looking forward playing with lightboost so badly !

  21. rasgard says:

    I think my VG248QE is broken.
    I installed ToastyX Strobelight App, lightboost is on, also in the ASUS On-Screen Menus I see 3D modus but the sharpest moving picture I get is with 0% brightness = lightboost OFF
    Moving Photo Test Street Map is sharp and readable at 1440 Pixels but not with 10%
    with lightboost ON 10-100% i see no difference in brightness

    Should I return the monitor?

  22. tigerman says:

    I just want to add a little information, if you do NOT have a lightboost (or any other backlight strobing feature)monitor but you HAVE a 3dvision monitor and glasses, you can use the glasses as backlight scan, just set the 3d to “always” on Nvidia panel and wear the glasses, they will do the backlight strobe function, obviously you will see only half of the frames for each eye, but the smooting is very nice, i did all the test here on blurbusters and i have no blur at all when i wear the glasses.

    Better than nothing! 🙂

  23. tanek says:


    Great work!

    I just got my three AOC2460Pqu monitors that should all be able to do LightBoost, right ( Problem is I run the suggested method and get no noticable difference at all. So I figured I’d try method number #3 (custom resuoluton utility) to see if maybe I could figure something out. There you say that lacking an emitter the mouse cursor might behave badly. And it did. Exactly in that way. Does that meen, then, that these monitors do not have an emitter and can’t do LightBoost? Tough shit me, then I suppose since I kind of chose these specifically for that reason. Suppose they are still a reasonable 144Hz alternative, I guess…

    If that is true though, maybe add a little heads up for the future to the article?


    Oh and after installing the easy tool for a while the nvidia stereotropic 3d service went haywire and system interrupts literally ate a whole CPU core. That came with significant lag spikes aswell.

    Final note: I have 2 GPUs, one nvidia 680 and one AMD 5850 (5 monitors…). Do you reckon that could be an issue? I figured it shouldn’t really.


    • Chief Blur Buster says:

      Alas, the AOC doesn’t support LightBoost after all — later redacted that information once it was realized AOC didn’t license NVIDIA LightBoost for use in their monitor. (Seen if you follow the link from the old BlurBusters link) Fortunately, AOC has woken up and they have licensed NVIDIA GSYNC for their upcoming, future model of monitors.

      Most up-to-date information:

      I’m sorry to be the bearer of bad news that the g2460Pqu does not support LightBoost. For the most up-to-date currently-on-the-market strobe backlight information, refer to the Official 120Hz Monitors List at (or google “120Hz Monitors”) which puts the AOC monitor in the correct non-strobe section.

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  26. Xaven says:

    I tried the Toasty method on my new VG248QE and after installing strobelight and choosing 120Hz Strobbed and 120Hz non-Strobbed, I added the .exe to startup and hit restart.

    When the screen comes back up the brightness is dark and the color has a red tint to it. Under my OSD it says I am in 3D-Mode and I cannot adjust anything, and it says brightness is at 100% but looks dark.

    Any suggestions? Is this just not working for this monitor right now as I saw someone earlier in post with same issue but no reply was given. Thanks!

  27. icarosjune says:

    Hi this Monday i brought Benq XL2720Z(2720 series that goes up to 144hz: heard that this is 2720T’s upgrade version) and I’m trying to lightboost my display but it’s not working. I’m trying the way using ToastyX program and followed exactly the same as the page says. I first turned on “strobelight-setup” and strobed 120hz and 100hz, and non-strobed 144hz and 60hz and clicked install button. Then I rebooted my computer and ran “strobelight”. But here’s the problem. It says ‘Initializing display 1… (Pass oooo) This might take a few minutes.’ and at the oooo numbers are going on and on. I waited until this number came up to 50000(took about 1 or 2hours to go up there) and it doesn’t look like it will stop soon. I really want to do lightboost and I’m holding this stuff for 3days but I can’t understand whats the problem. Could you please help me?

  28. Gragento says:

    One question:
    I have this monitor, vg248qe, i play only world of tanks (online game) 144mhz TF100.
    If i turn on ligthboost i will have a better latency (response time)?

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  30. kaban says:

    i’ve looking for that question but i didn’t find. Please can u tell me is it normal that on my benq 2411z strobelight.exe (of course after used strobelight-setup and reboot) initializing by strobelight is so long… (it shows “initializing display1… (Pass: 20000+ and all time rising) Can u tell me what’s wrong?

  31. nimzotech says:

    Repost from the front page of (

    I enabled lightboost (Strobelight 4) on my Asus VG248QE. I have also followed the recommended tweaks in the Nvidia Control panel:
    nVidia Control Panel Desktop Brightness = 52%
    nVidia Control Panel Desktop Contrast = 45%
    nVidia Control Panel Desktop Gamma = 0.70

    Today my Spyder 4Pro arrived. The question I have is –
    Do I run calibration with LightBoost enabled?
    Do I run the spyder calibration with the LightBoost disabled?

    Normally the OSD provides more picture tweaks with lightboost disabled. Please advise.

    • Chief Blur Buster says:

      You will probably need two different monitor profiles — one with LightBoost, and another one without LightBoost. Switching between profiles with LightBoost is a bit tricky (unless you get a “LightBoost sequel” technology like ULMB, Turbo240, BENQ Blur Reduction which are better color and easier to calibrate). However, there are also third party utilities that allows you to switch color profiles more quickly.

      When you redo the calibration, you’ll want to restore NVIDIA Control Panel back to defaults, and calibrate via the Spyder 4 Pro. If you are able to only do one profile, and you don’t always use LightBoost 24/7, it’s probably best to calibrate non-LightBoost.

      • nimzotech says:

        Chief Blur Buster:

        Thank you so much for the response 😉

        Would you recommend I use the ULMB, Turbo240, BENQ Blur Reduction over ToastyX utility?
        Since the later was developed by BENQ and I use an Asus monitor, I was not sure the BENQ utility would work for me.

        • Chief Blur Buster says:

          LightBoost is great, but it’s also a first-generation of the motion blur reducing strobe backlights. The second generation wave of motion blur reduction technologies in the Official 120Hz Monitors List is getting better in picture quality. In my opinion, for picture quality during strobe mode, all of them are now preferable over LightBoost.

          ULMB — the sequel to LightBoost
          Turbo240 — clearest/best colors. (it’s a VA LCD panel, rather than a TN LCD panel)
          BENQ Blur Reduction Version 2 — lowest latency & sharpest motion when adjusted with Strobe Utility

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  34. combobreakrr says:

    so, i gave lightboost a try because i loved playing on a CRT.
    i went with the easiest method, with the programm called strobelight.
    Brightness got decreased but other than that nothing changed.
    So, i tried the override method and if i start a game i get a sound loop and my pc crashes..
    im using a ASUS: VG248QE monitor. Can someone help me? =)
    sorry for my bad english, i hope you can understand what i wrote and thank you for your time.

    • combobreakrr says:

      btw, i got a nvidia 650 TI, i did the test and i got the soundloop too, but i got it fixed with the ; STRG + T command, but in games it won’t work :'(

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  36. Vic says:

    I’m guessing this doesn’t work for PS3/PS4 right? It only works for PC as it relies on the right apps and drivers etc.
    I was hoping there was a way to flash the monitor itself somehow *sigh*

  37. armanisme says:

    Hello, I am using ToastyX Strobelight app and running 120hz strobe/lightboost and running it at 10% brightness and it is still bright for me if I make the brightness 5 or even 0 will this disable the lightboost/strobing? Please respond, thank you.

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  39. voo055 says:

    problem: on XL2420T, LightBooster forces 3D mode on. this is not a problem, but this also forces FULLSCREEN off, which means I can’t run CSGO in 4:3 stretched mode. Any known fix for this?

  40. SkaHot says:

    I would like to use the alternate CRU method with 3d Vision support on a VG248QE. Is there an CRU Alternate lightboost.bin file that is swapped similar to the strobelight.exe.swapped?

    • Chief Blur Buster says:

      I would not recommend trying on an unsupported monitor without being familiar with how to uninstall custom resolutions that makes an unsupported monitor go blank until rebooted to Safe Mode. The reset-all.exe file included with ToastyX CRU will be your best friend, if you dare to try.

  41. Malthegreat says:

    Help please. I just read the comment saying hdmi would not work. I already did it now my vg248 is saying hdmi no signal. Is it possible to rest the settings? My gpu is the Msi gtx 970. Will using DVi or displayport help?

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